Buttonhole-sewing machine.



, BEST AVAELABLE CQP` No, 765,341. PATENTBD JULY 19, 1904. A.. JBUDE. v

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION funn Auen. 1901.

N0 MODEL. I v v 8 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

' i Illllllllllllllllll- N0 MODEL.

BEST AVAILABLE COF l PATENTED AJULY 19, 1904. A. JEUDI-I.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIUATION ILnD AUG. 7, 1901.

- l s sH'nTsY-SHBET 2.

@ALM/14%@ l da wm #5 @We wuz/5 BEST AVA1LABLE'COPY l PATENTED JULY 19, 1904. Y A.JBUDE.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 7| 1901.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

N0 MODEL.

BEST AVAILABLE COF` PATENTED JULY 19, 1904.

A. JBUDL BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 7. 1901.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

N0 MODEL.

N0 MODEL.

BESTAv/-IHJIBLIE'COF PATENTED rJULI 19, 1904. AJBUDL BUTTONHULB SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. '1. 1901.

`8 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

. wwl@ mgm a CWLM@ 1ro MODEL.

BEST AvArLABLE COP- A. JEUDE. BUTTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION' FILED AUG. 7, 1901.

PATENTED JULY 19, 1904.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

No MODEL.

BEST AvAxLABLe- COP` PATENTED JULY 19, 1904. A. JEUDE. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 7.*1901.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 7.

BESTAVAILABLE coP PATENTBD JULY 19, I1904. A. JEUDE.

BUTTONHULE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIoAnoN Hmm AUG., '1, 1901. v No nonni.. a'snnn'rs-gnnn'r e.

WITNEssEs:

ATTORNEYS sEsT AVAILABLE cor- UNITED STATES' Patented July 19, L/L'.

' PATENT OEEICE.

AUGUST JEDE, OF LEIPZIG-STTTERITZ, GERMANY, ASSIGN OR TO AARON BUTToNi-ioLE-sx-:WING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 765,341, dated July 19, 1904. Appiimion tied August 7. 1901. sesamo. 71,181. (No model.)

To aZZ whom, it vmty concern,.-

Be it known that I, AUGUST JEUDE, mechanician, residing at Leipzig-Sttteritz, Leipzigerstrasse N o. 151 D, in the Kingdom of Saxony, Germany, have invented new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole Sewing Ma chines, of which the following is a specilication. l

This invention relates to sewing-machines generally, and more particularly to overedge sewing-machines such as are used for overseaming the edges of buttonholes, and in the able in a curved path.

following description the invention will be described as applied to a buttonhole-sewing machine of the well-known type, in which the buttonhole is first cutand then has its two edges stitched and in which the sewing is effected by Ineans of astraight needle located above the Work and moving vertically and a bent needle located below the work and. mov- 1 These machines are so arranged that the fabric remains stationary while the sewing instruments are carried by an arm of the machine which moves With relation to the work. These machines have other special mechanlsms for cutting the buttonholes, for actuating the sewing mechanism, and for other purposes; but as these mechanisms are well known in the art and do not form part of the present invention they are not herein fully described or shown indetail in the accompanying drawings.

An objectionable feature about buttonholes as they are made on the usual buttonhole-sewing machine is that the cut ends of the filaments or fibers of the fabric protrude into the buttonhole between the stitches. This is due to the fact that the necessary degree of tension on the sewing-thread causes this thread to be drawn so deeply into the cut edge that the fibers of the fabric necessarily project between the successive stitches.

One important feature of the present invention consists in mechanism for overcoming this difliculty by placing asuitable thread, herein called the insertion-thread, upon or over the cut filaments, preferably upon the corner or angular edge formed by the buttonhole-opening and one side of the fabric,

so that when the stitches are formed over the cut edge and around the insertion-thread they are prevented by said thread from beingdrawn by the tension into the cut edge of the fabric.

In this Way any protrusion of the ends of the filaments is rendered impossible, because the ends of the filaments are bound betweenv the new thread on the angular edge of the buttonholeand the common gimp-thread, if a gimp-thread is used, or the purl of the sewing-thread on the other side of the fabric. 6o This new thread may, Y if desired, take the place of the gimp-thread heretofore used and which is located somewhat back from the angular edge of the buttonhole, or it may be applied in addition to the gimp-thread, thus af'- 65 fording increased-strength.

For the purpose of properly placing the insertion-thread at the angle formed by the cut edge of the buttonhole and one side of the fabric I have provided the buttonhole-sewing 7o machine with a thread-guide arranged in advance of the needle to locate the insertion# thread in the desired position, where it will be secured by the stitch-forming mechanism. Preferably the thread-guide will bear upon the angular edge of the buttonhole or slightly enter the buttonhole, so as to place thethrcad accurately. It is to be understood that the thread-guide moves along the sides of the buttonholeandV turns around the curved eye 8o thereof slightly inadvance of the upper needle, and I have found it desirable for the best results to slightly raise the thread-guide While passing around the edge of the buttonhole to facilitate the turning of the guide. I have therefore provided means for moving the thread-guide up and down,and thereby controlling its vertical position during the sewing of different portions of the buttonhole.

I have also provided means by which the 9o normal position of the thread-guide may be controlled automatically by the thickness of the work.

Another important feature of my invention consists in providing means to hold the free end of the insertion-thread and to coperate with the thread-guide for so placing the end portion of the insertion-thread that it will be BEST AVAlLABLE COF" secured by the stitch-forming mechanism at the beginning of the seam. 'I`his relieves the operatorl from the necessity of manually holding the free end of vthe.insertion-thread in proper relation to the stitch-forming mechanism so that the thread will be secured by the stitches at the beginning of the seam. In the embodiment of this feature of the invention herein shown the end of the insertion-thread is held in a clampand preferably this clamp retains its hold on the thread until the completion of the seam and then releases it and engages the portion of the thread leading from the thread-guide to the last end of the seam and which will be the thread leading to the beginning ofthe next seam.

I have also provided a thread-cutter and operating mechanism for causing the cutter to engage the portion of the insertion-thread leading to the beginning of the seam and trim it off close to the surface of the workA after the seam has been commenced.

'tion, Serial No. 201,552, filed April 4, 1904, claims which relate more particularly to the features ofthe invention which cooperate in the thread cutting and'clamping operations per se.

Other featuresof the invention, including combinations of parts and details of construction,willbe hereinafter described, and pointed scale.

out inthe claims. f

Figure 1 shows the front view of the device for laying on the insertion-thread. Fig. 2 is a side view showing the raised position of the thread-guide. Fig. 3 is a side view showing the lowered position of the threadguide. Figs. 4 and 5 show sections on the lines 4 4 and 5 5 of Figs. 2 and 3, respectively. Figs. 6 and 7show the working part of the thread-guide in two views upon an enlarged Figs. 8 and 9 show another construction of the thread-guide in two views upon an enlarged scale. Fig. 10 is aside elevation showing the various positions of the threadguide at the different parts of the buttonhole. Fig. .10 is a horizontal sectional view of the parts in the positions illustrated in Fig. 10. Fig. 11 shows a sectional plan on line 9 9, Fig. 1. Figs. 12 and 13 show the positions of the new or insertion thread. Fig. 14 shows a side view of the device for cutting ofi' the thread in the position before the commencement of theoperation. Fig.. 15 shows a plan of Fig. 14, partly in section, on lineAB, Fig. 14. Fig. 16 is a front view of Fig. 14. Fig. 17 shows a section on line C I), Fig. 14, with the parts near the end of the working motion after the opening of the shears and clamping-l thread-guide.

18 is a side view of the device in the closed position. Fig'. 19 is a plan'of Fig. 18, partly in section, on line E F. Fig. 2O isasection, upon an enlarged scale, through the shears and 'clamp on line Gr H, Fig. 14. Fig. 21 shows a separate 'view of parts of Fig. 18 in a different position. Figs. 22, 23, and 24 are elevations of the Lipper needle, the `guide for the insertion-thread, the thread-clamp, and the thread-cutter, showing these parts in differentpositions and illustrating their coperation.

The mechanism for applying the insertionthread is constructed as follows in the machine illustrated by the drawings: The position of the insertion -thread 5, as shown in Figs. 12 and 13, is upon the upper corneror edge of the buttonhole-that is, at that line where the upper surface of the fabric' meets the side of the buttonhole. Upon the lower side of the fabric and at a slight distance from the edge of the buttonhole is located the gimp-thread 42, which passes through a I channel 43 in the sewing-plate 40, having a tongue 41, at each side of which are arranged the upper and lower thread-spools, respectively. The gimp-thread 42 lies at such a distance .from the edge of the buttonhole that it is not serviceable -for efficiently retaining the cut filament ends. The insertion-thread 5 is supplied from a suitable spool and passes through an eye 4 in a thread-guide 3. This thread-guide is carried in the specific manner presently to be stated upon the arm I, which moves to and fro in the direction of the ar- IOO row, said direction being parallel to that of or any suitable stitch-forming mechanism.

The th read-gu ide 3 has its eye arranged somewhat eccentrically to the guideholder 8, which has a vertical movement in the socket 9. A pin 11 projects from the shank or holder 8 through a slot 10 in said socket and rests. upon a disk or fiange 12, which embraces the The flange 12 is secured to the lower end of avertically-movable rod 26, which is normally held in its upper position by a spring 25. The rod 26 may be pressed downward by meansof a lever 24, which is connected by a rod 23 with a rocking arm 21, pivoted at 22 to the foot of the arm 1. OnV the frame of the machine is mounted an abutment-piece or controlling-piece 16, which BEST AvAiLAsLi-i coP- 4block 28,v to which leads an inclined surface 29. The inclined surface 29, the block 28, and

the deiecting-surface30 yare substantially in a straight line, and in another straight line, which is lpractically parallel with the one lirst mentioned, I arrange the block 17 and the deiectr 27. It will be understood that as the arm 1 reciprocates it will carry the screw 14 with it, and if the arm moves to the right from the position shown in Fig. 2 the screw will come jin contact with the deflector 27, and will thus cause the controlling-piece 16 to swing laterally on its pivot 15. Owing to this'swinging movement the screw 14 will at the movement of the arm 1' toward the right ride up the incline 29, so as to reach the topof the block 28 and will finally engage the deflector 30. This will cause the controlling-piece 16 to swing back to its original position and will bring the screw 14 onto the portion-18a of the block 17, which portion, as before stated, is slightly lower than the projection 18. The projection 18 and the block 28' are at 'substantially the same level. It will bereadily understood that as the screw 14l moves up and down a similar motion is imparted to the rocking arm 21, and this motion is 'transmitted in a' reverse direction to the rod 26 and to the iange 12, carried by said rodi This flange is provided with a depression or recess 35, which is adapted to be engaged by the' pin 11 of the holder-8 when said holder is in a predetermined position, as will be described hereinafter. The sleeve or socket-9,'in which the guide-holder 8 moves, is provided with a toothed sector 31, journaled at it its center upon the arm 1. The sleeve 9 is located eccentrically with reference to said sector. This sector 31 is in engagement with another toothed sector 33,

mounted to oscillate about a pivot 32,secured upon the arm 1. An arm 34 is provided for moving the sector 33 to and fro.

At the side of the thread-guide 3 is arranged an elastic cloth-presser 36, preferably secured on the same holder or shank 8, this presser being adapted to forcibly engage the fabric close to the eye of the thread-guide, so as to positively place the insertion-thread on the edge or corner of the buttonhole.

Another form of thread-guide is shown in Figs. 8and 9. The mechanism for swinging the thread-guide in this construction may be the same as the one described hereinbefore. The vertical position of the thread-guide, however, is in this case controlled in a much simpler manner-to wit, by means of a lug 37 on the thread-guide, which lug is adapted to engage a path 38, provided on the clothclamp or'cloth-presser 7. 4The thread-guide, further, has a second lug 37, which is adapted vto rest on the edge of the buttonhole, so that the extreme lower end 371 of the threadguide below the eye 4 is adapted to project into the buttonhole.

It will be understood that the iiange 12 may also be employed in 4this case, in connection with the pin 11 on the holder 8. to raise the thread-guide entirely away from the fabric. It will be understood that the lug 37a controls the position of the thread-guide relatively to the buttonhole in accordance with the thickness of the fabric and that with this construction the insertion -thread 5, which 8o passes 'through the eye 4, will always be placed exactly on top of the corner formed at tlie'upper edge of the buttonhole. The lower extremity 37b of the thread guide forms an efficient guide to place the insertion- '8 5 thread exactly on top of the fabr-ic at the ed'ge of the buttonhole, as shown in Fig. 12. In connection'with the devices above described for properly'positioning theinsertion'- thread 5 I'provide means for clamping-the `9AO thread` which means are preferably combined with a cutter and vwith a holder to temporarily support the thread when released from the clamp. In -the particular embodiment` illustrated by the drawings these devices are constructed as follows:

Upon a standard 101, secured to the frame ofthe machine, is rigidly carried, as by means of a set-screw 102, an arm 103, provided at its free end with a socket 104, having arms 106 projected in opposite directions from its upper end. In the socket is adapted to' move up and down a rod 107, provided with a pin 108, projecting through a helical or screw slot 109 in the socket, so that the rod in moving up and down will also turn about,

its axis.y To the lower end ofA the rod 1 07 is rigidly secured an arm .100, carrying at its IOO free end a socket 110, upon which are supported the clamp and the cutter 120.' A spring engages a pin 150 upon the socket 104, and also a pin 160 upon the head 170 ofy the rod 107, so as to tend to move the said rod downwardly. To normally lock the rod 107 in its'upper position, I provide said rod with a notch 180, (see Fig. 15,) into which is adapted to project a locking-arm 200, ful' crumed at 210 upon the arm 106. This locking-arm 200 is also adapted' to project through l a notch of the socket 104. A spring 230 is employed to draw the locking-arm toward the rod 107, the stationary end of said spring being secured to a pin 220. In order torelease the rod 107, Iprovide an operating member 240 upon the'arm 1 of the machine. This operating member is adapted to strike a projection 250 on the locking-arm 200,l the projection being preferably adjustable, as shown. The motion of the arm 1 is not purely reciprocating-that is, the forward lpath and return-path are not the same-and thus theoperating member 240 engages the projection causing the clamp 130 and the cutter 120 to r move from the upper position (shown in Figs.

14, 15, and 16) to the lower position. (Shown in Figs. 18 and 19,.) To bring the rod 107 and the parts carried .thereby back to their upper position, I provide an inclined abutment 270 on the arm 1, which abutment is adapted to engagea pin 280, projected from the head 170,

` .tonhola so as to raise the said head and the rod 1.07.

The .detail construction .of the clamp andof the cutter, together with the mechanism for j causing them to open and close, is as Ifollows in the machine illustrated by the drawings: To the lower end of the socket 110 is secured V threadguide t0 rise Slightly,

one blade, 290, ofthe cutter and also one member, 3.00,. of the clamp. Theother clamp mem- 1 ber, 320, and the other cutter-blade, 3.10 are rigidly secured ,to the spindle 330, which is arranged within the socket 110. The cutterblade .310 is` secured by means of a screw 500,

and the clamp member 320' is secured either z directly to the spindle 330 or to ian intermediate piece 51.0, as by means of a screw 501. The upper end of the-spindle 330 is provided with an arm 340, having a-eontacI-pin 350.. This pin is adapted to bear against a contact member 360 when the arm 100 moves helically downward. The contact member 360 is suspended from a pivot 37.0 on the arm 1:05 and is held in its normal position by a spring 380,. It will be understood that the contact member 360 forms an obstruction in the ,path of the pin 350, so as to .detain said pin, and with it the spindle 330, for a time, thus causing the clamp and the cutter to open while .the arm continues its movement. I n order to close the clamp andthe cutter, I provide a spring B90, which is secured to the socket and bears against :a pin 400 .on the arm 340. ln order to allow the contact member 360 to move lout of the pathof the pin 350 .during the return movementof such pin, the said contact member is disposed .obliquely, as shown best in Figs. l5., ,17, and 19, so that when the pin 350engages the contact mem-ber from the rear .it .will swing said .contact member to 4one sidevas shown in Fig. 21, so that the pin will not be detained and the clamp and cutter will remain closed. The contact member 360 swings back to lits normal vertical position under the infin- .ence of the spring 380.

Asa means for holding the .thread which leads to `the beginning of the seam, I have proyided a supportor holder 6, which preferably is secured to the cloth-clamp or cloth-presser BEST AVAILABLE COF` 7 and which is adapted to engage the thread, and particularly the insertion-thread 5,'between the fabric and the clamp 130. vThis holder is shown in Figs. 1 2% f2.3, and 24. The operation of the mechanism is as follows:

In the position illustrated by Fig. 2 the thread-guide 3 is aboye the fabric, and a Ipove-` ment of the arm 1 to the right occurs at first, which brings' the parts to .the position shown in full lines in Fig. 24,- D- urng :Such moro.- ment the screw 14C engages the de ectorg, and thus swings the Incline 2.9 into the' path of the screw, As the movement of the arm v1 from right to lefttakes place the Screw 214srdes up the incline 29, and thus the Hanse 12 and the thread-guide 3., with the clothfpresser 3 6, are lowered upon the This .Occurs at a slight distance from the @mi 0f the bllif left continues the screw 14: macht-5S th@ l@- lector 3.0 at ,the end of the block 28, and 'thus the controllingfpieee 16 is .shifted laterally., SD

.that the screw lfteomes .to rest .DD the dpra* sion 18". This causes f-ffh dalla@ 13 md $91k@ .the .screw 14 engages the-depression 18 when the arm l has Hwved fullyto the leftitxyll.

4to lo wel' the thread somewhat in order b9 bring it accurately into position.. '11o' this end the fiat recess 35 is so located that the insertion- 1n-eed is lowered s lightly'near the completion of the turning around the .eye in conse' quence of the pin `ll'of the guide-holder ,8V

.dropping .into .the l'CSS. before the gui@- holder is depressed by the ls creyy 14: rising onto the promotion 18. It will be understood that while the thread-guide .3 is raised at :the:

eye of ,the buttonhole it is turned' through .an angle of vsubstantially one hundred and eighty .degrees by the intermeshing sections ,31 and As the arm 1 returns toward the right the screw 14 moves on the block 18, and thus keeps the thneadfguide down until at the point where the stitching is to tcease the screw 14 .drops ou the hrizonilfl surface' 20, thus raising the thread-guide away from .the fabric t0 ,the position shown in Fig. 2. The thread-gui de 3 is turned in the oppositediree- .tion by the action .of the sectors 3l ,33 when the end .of the buttonhole opposite t0 the eye is reached. The insertiomthread is 'laid upon the edge or zcorner .of the fabric-,at the buttonhole (see Fig. 12) and iis securely held in ysuch position by the .threadsof the stitching mechanism. Thus the strand .of the insertion- -th-read preventsa pnotrusionof thecutlw AS nl@ motion of me arm i to che 9 IIO .. ,guid'e or holder 6. Then' the clamp 130 and' cutter 120 move toward the needle and thread- 765,3.eEsTAi/A1LABLE coP r- 5' ment of the thread-guide is controlled or limited in a positive manner. The lug 37a also forms a cloth-presser for the edge of the fabric at the buttonhole, andV the4 same function is performed in the form of construction illustrated by Figs. 1 to 7 bythe cloth-presser 36.

InV regard to the action ofthe thread-clamp 13.0 and the thread-cutter 120 the following explanation is given with particular reference to Figs. 22, 23, and' 24: Fig. 2,2 shows the up- .per needle andthe thread-guide 3, together with the threads and the clamp, in the position at the end of 'the sewing operation. f The clamp 130 still holds the ends' of the threads which lead tothe beginning of the seam, these lportions of the threads being placed'over the guide, passing 'below the' plane of the holder ,6 in to the positon shown in Figi 23. During thismovement the clamp releases the threads,

` which, however, are cam'ghtinl the anglel between the members of the cutter 120,A which also receives the thread 'portions which extend upward from the end ofthe seam tothe upper 'needle 'and 'to the thread-'guide 3. While'the L parts are in this position the blades of the cutter 120 close' so as to cut all four thread portions, thecut'ends being shown at :u in Fig. 23, and at the same time the members `of the clamp close so as to grip that portion of the thread which will form the beginning for the next seam and the 'strand of the insertion-thread 5 for the next buttonhole.' Thereupon the needle and thread-guide 3 move to the right, as do also the clamp 130 and 'cutter 120, carrying the parts to the position illustrated by full lines in Fig. 24. From this position the upper needle and the thread-guide 3 return to thatshown in dotted lines in Fig.,24, which position is substantially the same as that shown in Figs. 3'and 8. The clamp 130 and cutter 120 meanwhile return to the lower position 'shown in Fig. 22, (also in Fig. 2,) and in consequence of these combined movements the threads are 4laid over the holder 6, as shown in Fig. 22. These ends of the threads lremain securely clamped while the seam is being made and are released only immediately beforethe cutter 120 comes into action, as

described. The fact that said cutter is made of two members, which recei've the threads between them, is of importance, inasmuch as the cutter itselfl will catch a'ndhold the thread ends when they are released by the clamp,

and thus itl becomes possible to cut thefour ends of the threads close to the buttonholethat is, the threads which lead to the beginning of the seam'are cut together with those extending from the end of the seam.

It will be understood that the thread-guide 3 moves in advance 'of the needle carrying the sewing-thread. It' will also be observed that the clamp 130 and the guide 3 are situated on opposite sides o'f the stitch-forming mechanism'which is formed by the two needles. With this arrangementan accurate p0- si tioning of the insertion-tlnead' is-'insured That I claim as new, 'and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is'- v 1. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-'forming mechanism of means for placing an insertion-thread on thel fabric at the angle' between one slde of 'the fabric and the edge of the buttonhole in conformity with the contour of the buttonhole, and holding said insertion-thread in'such position while it is being secured "by the stitch-forming mechanism, and means for actuating said stitch-forming mechanism to lay threads over said insertion-thread.

' 2 In ai' buttonholesewing machine, the l combination with means for placing a'gimpthread on one side of the fabric and meansfor placmg' an insertion-thread at the angle 'between the other side of the fabric and the edge ofthe buttonhole, of stitch-forming mechanism arranged to bind said insertion-thread in direct contact with the fabric throughout the length of the buttonhole.

3.' In a buttonhole'- sewing machine, the' combination with stitch-forming mechanism of a'thread-guide for placing a gimp-thread ou one side of the fabric, a thread-guide for placing an insertion-'thread' on vthe fabric at the angle between the other side of the fabric and the edge of the buttonhole, and means for changing relatively the paths of said threadguides while the eye of .thel buttonhole is being sewed. Y'

4. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,Y the combination with stitch-'forming mechanism o'f means for placing an insertion-thread' on the fabric at the angle between one side of the fabric and the edge of the buttonhole, said means comprising a clampl for holding the end of the insertion-thread and a 'guide' for 'positioning the strand of' the`insertion-thread, said clamp and guide being located upon '0ppo'site sides of the stitch-forming mechanism in starting the stitching of the buttonhole, whereby the end portion of the thread' 'is secured in accurate position. l

5. In' a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism of means for placing 'an inserti'on-thread on the fabric atthe angle between one side of the fabric and the edge of'the buttonhole, said means comprising a clamp for holding the end of the insertionthread and a guide for posiloo 'IIO

lIIC.

tioning the strand of the insertion-thread, said clamp and guide being located upon opposite sides of the stitch-forming mechanism, whereby the end portion of vthe thread issecured in accurate position, and a cutter cooperating with said clamp to trim oli' the loose end portion'of the thread close to the fabric after the sewing has commenced.

.6. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism of a thread-guide movable along the buttonhole in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, and means for moving the thread-guide up and down while sewing around the eye of the buttonhole., Y

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism of a thread-guide movable along the buttonhole in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism -and having a portion adapted to be rey ceived in the buttonhole and be guided thereby to place a thread along the edge of the buttonhole, and automatic means for lifting the thread-guide at the eye ofthe buttonhole to facilitate the turning of theguide.

8. In a buttonhole -sewing machine, the

'combination with stitch-forming mechanism of a thread-guide movable along the buttonhole in advance of the stitch-forming mechanfism, and having a portion adapted to be re- `.ceived in the buttonhole and be-guided there- '.by to place a thread along the edge of the butf `tonho le, of automatic means for lifting the thread-guide at the eye of the buttonhole to -facilitate the turning of the guide, and means for moving the thread-guideup and down while the eye of the buttonholeis being stitched. 9. A buttonhole-sewing machine'comprising thecom bination with stitch-forming mechanism of acombined cloth-presser and threadguide having a portion adapted to rest upon the fabric at theV edge o f the buttonhole and a portion adapted to enter'the buttonhole, and means -to move saidl combined presser and guide longi-tudinally'of the buttonhole.

10. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprisl ing the combination with sti tch-fo rmin g mechanism of aeombined cloth-presser and threadguide having a portion adapted to rest upon the fabric at the edge of the buttonhole and a portion adapted to enter the buttonhole, and being provided with a thread-guiding eye located adjacent to the angle between said two portions to place a thread at the angle between the edge and face of the buttonhole, and means to move said combined presser'and guide longitudinally of the buttonhole.

11. A buttonhole-sewing machine com prising the combination with stitch-forming mechanism of a thread-guide for placing an insertion-thread along the edge of the buttonhole` of means controlled by the thickness of the work for supporting the guide in desired relation to the Work, and means to move the guide .longitudinally of the buttonhole.

' 12. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising the combi nation with sti tch-forming mech--v anism of a thread-guide for placing an;;i.nser tion-thread along the edge of the buttonhole, of means i ntermediate the work and the threadguide and controlled b y the thickness ofthe work for supporting the guide in desired relation to the work, and means to move the guide longitudinally of the buttonhole. l

13. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism of a thread-guide for placingan insertionthread along the edge of the buttonhole, of

means controlled by the thickness of the Work for supporting. the guide in desired relation to the work while one portion ofthe buttonwork while th e insertion-thread is being placed around the eye of the buttonhole.

15. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a threadguide for placing an insertion- -thread along the edge of the buttonhole, ofv

means for supporting the thread-guide in one vertical relation to the work while one part of the buttonhole is being stitched, and means for changing automatically the vertical rela tion of the thread-guide to the work While a different portion of the buttonhole -is being stitched. I

16. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination, with a thread-guide provided at the upper side of the fabric, of means tomove said guide longitudinally of the buttonhole in a path substantially parallel with the edgeof the buttonhole, and to turn it at the eyeof the buttonhole.

17. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with a threadrguide provided at the upper side of the fabric, of means to move said guide to and fro 'along the buttonholel and to turn it at the eye of the buttonhole, a needle and means to actuate it to travel along the buttonhole in the rear of the said threadguide.

18. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the

IIO

combination with a`thread-guide provided at A the upper side of the fabric, of means to move said guide to and fro along the buttonhole and to turn it at the eye of the buttonhole, and means to lower and to raise the said threadguidewhile traveling along the buttonhole.

19. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with a thread-guide provided at BEST AvAiLAB ECP" l)er side of the fabric, of means to move to turn it at the eye of the bu ttonhole, a holder 2O guide to and fro along the buttonhole and carrying said guide eccentrically, a toothed turn it at the eye ofthe buttonhole` and sector on the guide holder, and a second -neans to raise the said threadguide while toothed sector engaging the lirst one, and turning around the needle at the eye of the means to oscillate the latter sector.

buttonhole. 22. In a sewing-machine, the combination 25 20. In a buttonhole-sewing machine., the with a needle and a thread-guide adjacent combination with a thread-guide provided at thereto, of means for moving said guide the upper side of the fabric, of means to move lengthwise of the seam, and a cloth-presser said guide to and fro along the buttonhole and provided with a path on which a portion of to turn it at the eye of the buttonhole, a pin the said thread-guide is adapted to slide. i 30 provided on the thread-guide, a circular flange In testimony whereofI have signed my name surrounding the thread-guide and serving as to this specication in the presence of two suba support for the said pin, and means to raise seribing Witnesses.

and to lower the said Harige.

2L In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the AUGUST JEUDE' f combination with a thread-guide provided at Witnesses:

the upper side of the fabric, of means to move JEAN GRUND, said guide to and fro along the buttonhole and CARL GRUND. 

